Why Nicaragua?
I visited Nicaragua with a specific goal in mind — to kitesurf in Ometepe — rather than to follow a typical tourist route. That shaped the rhythm and the destinations of my trip. I spent 1.5 days in Granada and the rest on Ometepe Island. If I return, I’d love to explore León (where you can volcano board) and maybe the remote Corn Islands for proper tropical beaches. San Juan del Sur is popular for wave surfing, but based on local and traveler feedback, it’s not the best destination if you’re simply seeking beautiful beaches.
Trip Summary
Route: Managua → Granada (1.5 days) → Ometepe Island (4.5 days)
Length: 6 full days (excluding travel)
Getting There & Visas
I flew from Madrid via Miami to Managua, as there are no direct flights from Europe. A better option (in hindsight) would be flying into San José, Costa Rica, and driving 4 hours to Granada. Upon arrival in Nicaragua, you must pay a $10 visa fee — in cash. There’s a small currency exchange before passport control, but the rates are high, so bring USD if possible.
I pre-booked a taxi through a number I found on Viator. It wasn’t cheap ($80 for the 1-hour drive from Managua to Granada), but it felt safer than arranging a ride on arrival — especially as a solo traveler.
Granada (1.5 Days)
Stay: Socialtel (formerly Selina) — centrally located hostel great for meeting people. I booked a private room with bathroom. No hot water in the shower, though — something I’d sadly get used to throughout my stay in Nicaragua.
Eat:
- The Garden Café: A charming café with a peaceful courtyard, good for breakfast, lunch, or getting some work done. I had a typical Nicaraguan breakfast with eggs, plantains, fruit, and coffee.
What to Do:
- I joined the free walking tour through the hostel, which covered:
- The colonial city center
- The local market (avoid going alone — it’s large, chaotic, and not the safest)
- Tasting local delicacies
- Visiting Granada Cathedral
- Climbing the bell tower at Iglesia de la Merced for sweeping city views
- In the afternoon, I joined a boat tour of Las Isletas de Granada — a scenic trip through tiny islands with rich vegetation and birdlife. We stopped for a drink on one of the islands.
Granada is the second-oldest colonial city in Latin America after Antigua, Guatemala, and is 500 years old. The house colors change every two years around New Year’s, adding even more charm to the streets. Compared to Antigua, Granada feels less touristy, not as clean, and more visibly affected by poverty — but its vibe reminded me of Casco Viejo in Panama or Cartagena in Colombia. The city’s main economic sources are tourism, agriculture and the big Chamorro factory, which mainly produces oils and cleaning products.
What I Wish I Had Done:
- Masaya Volcano: Known for lava views directly in the crater. Unfortunately, access was recently limited due to a collapse at the crater’s edge. Hopefully it reopens in the future — it would be worth the visit.
Travel Tip:
Restaurants close early in Nicaragua. Plan your dinners in advance — by 8:30 PM many kitchens are already closed.
Ometepe Island (4.5 Days)
Getting There:
My Granada taxi driver also brought me to the port of San Jorge for the ferry to Ometepe. Ferries go to either Moyogalpa or San José del Sur, though Moyogalpa is the main hub.
- Ferry cost: 50 cordobas (approx. $1.40) per person, one-way
- Ferry tip: The ride can be choppy depending on wind and waves.
How to Get Around:
- Best: Scooter (cheap and practical, but roads are often dirt and dangerous — I saw multiple people fall) or quad.
- Taxis: I used taxis for longer stretches between towns (e.g., port to El Pital and back)
Where I Stayed:
- El Pital Chocolate Paradise (Balgüe area)
- One of the most iconic places to stay on the island
- I had a dreamy private room with an outdoor bathroom
- Note: There was no hot water in the shower
- Food is all vegan, chocolate-based for breakfast (pancakes or oatmeal), and I recommend the vegan burger at night
- Occasional themed nights: tacos, salsa dancing, etc.
- Located down a small dirt path near the lake — super peaceful
- Here you can pay cash or Paypal
- Internet connection is not great (but expect this everywhere in Nicaragua)
Vibe of the Island:
Ometepe is a volcanic island in Lake Nicaragua with two volcanoes — Concepción (active) and Maderas (dormant). It’s often cloudy or rainy. You’ll always have a volcano in view, but sunshine isn’t guaranteed.
Kitesurfing on the Lake
I came to Ometepe primarily to kitesurf. I trained at Ometepe Kite Center, owned by Israeli kiters.
- Wind Season: December–April (January is peak)
- Conditions: Not flat water — wavy lake. Depending on tides, beaches for launching might be limited. You’ll often need help launching/landing to avoid crashing into trees.
That said, it’s an incredible place to kite. Very few people on the water, and surreal views of volcanoes while you ride.
Non-Kite Activities
1. Hike Volcano Maderas (Dormant)
- All-day guided hike: 4 hours up, 4 hours down (~15 km total)
- Terrain: Cloud forest — super muddy and humid
- Bring: hiking poles (my guide cut me a stick!), waterproof shoes, and a change of clothes
- Destination: Crater lake (often fog-covered — visibility is luck)
Pro Tip: After the hike, I rinsed off mud by walking into the lake with shoes and all before showering
I chose this over the more intense Concepción Volcano hike since I’d already done Acatenango and Fuego in Guatemala and the landscape is similar.
2. Yoga & Relaxation
- El Pital and Totoco Eco Lodge both offer yoga
- After kite sessions or hikes, yoga was a lifesaver for recovery
3. Sunset at Playa Mangoes
- Great beach bar to sip a drink while watching the sun set behind Volcano Concepción
4. El Zopilote Pizza Night (Balgüe)
- The local go-to on event nights
- Live music, pizza, and uphill access
Food & Drink
- Nicaraguan food is simple: meat or fish with rice, beans, and tortillas
- Balgüe has several cheap food trucks and local eateries
- Don’t expect gourmet meals — the food is homey and filling
Where to Stay on Ometepe
- Best Area: Balgüe — hostels, restaurants, night events
- Quieter/Luxury: Totoco Eco Lodge or El Pital
Tips & Essentials
What to Bring:
- For Volcano Hikes:
- Hiking shoes you don’t mind ruining
- Trekking poles
- Waterproof layers
- Extra socks, change of clothes
- Snacks & water
- For Ometepe in General:
- Sunscreen & bug spray
- Reusable water bottle
- Waterproof backpack
- Flashlight or headlamp (some areas are very dark)
- Travel towel
- General:
- Cash in cordobas (local currency — better exchange rate)
- Don’t rely on card everywhere
- Avoid chicken buses (not safe)
Pro Tip: I never had hot water during my trip — even in nicer eco-stays like El Pital.
Final Thoughts
Nicaragua is raw and real. It’s not the polished Central America you find in Costa Rica, but that’s part of the charm. Granada has colonial beauty, and Ometepe offers tranquility and adventure. If you’re up for some rugged travel and dream of kitesurfing with volcano views — this is your place.
Boarding Beats 